First, I was sure the barrel channel was floated so a folded index card could easily pass all the way to the receiver. I used 320 grit paper over a deep wall socket.
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First, I was sure the barrel channel was floated so a folded index card could easily pass all the way to the receiver. I used 320 grit paper over a deep wall socket. |
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Second, I bedded the tang lug with JB Weld so it was solid to the action, but clean the area first. For clarity, this is the metal cylinder the rear action screw turns into. You only need a little JB Weld in the dovetail before sliding the lug in place. Wipe off any excess that oozes out of the joint before screwing the barreled action into the stock for curing. Be sure the barrel is centered and the action is seated properly.
Third, I stress relieved any tight areas around the receiver. This was done with 320 grit paper.
Fourth, all areas need to be clean and free of oil and wax for bedding material adhesion.
Fifth, the action area where the front pillar will go needs to be flat for solid contact. I just flat filed the area, but carefully left the retainer wall for the sear ball untouched. See photo below
Sixth, using 3/8inch diameter threaded lamp sleeves, I prepared the pillars. They were cut to approximate length with a hacksaw and threaded into place using a large screw extractor. Both ends need to be flat filed until a perfect fit was obtained. A chop saw with an abrasive disk will help keep the ends square if you use a fence. Don't lose your trigger finger in the process, put a dowel with a tape shoulder inside the pillar for this step. Index the inside of the pillar to a place on the stock with a Sharpie. The threads were coated with JB Weld and turned into place using the index marks as a reference.
Seventh, set your barreled action into place and be sure the pillars are right. Remember, the pillars need to contact the action and trigger guard plate to do their job. If they fail to do this, you are wasteing your time. Getting them slightly longer than the stock takes time in fitting and indexing. Turning the pillar into the stock one thread off can ruin the desired result. I drag a steel straight edge across the stock to assure me the pillar is slightly below the wood. Wrap 1/2 inch electrical tape around the barrel where it lays in the end of the forestock. This will keep your barrel centered and from dropping as you position the action for fit. Be sure you start and end you tape wrap at the top of the barrel. Using modeling clay, a dam was made on both the sear and magazine sides of the front pillar. I chose to use Probed 2000 and filled the cavity on both sides of the front pillar only. This was not to bed the action but to support the pillar. After it sets-up, you will need to get out the dremel and clean the area for fit. After you get everything fitting properly for clearance, you need to remove the plastic magazine receiver and trigger mechanism. While the trigger was out I decided to try a lighter spring.
Eighth, coat all metal that may come in contact with bedding material with release agent. ProBed comes with a waxy release agent but clear paste shoe polish in a can works juat as well. Be sure you liberally coat the action screws and threads.
Ninth, cut pieces of plastic soda straw for both action screws to slip into. Coat the soda straws and pillar insides with release agent. Slide the straw pieces into the pillars. This will maintain a space between the pillar and screw.
Tenth, mix your bedding material and apply in strategic locations only. More is not necessairly better. I used a syringe to gain control over application. My syringe was recycled from a tooth whitening gel kit. Just enough was applied to the rear screw lug pocket so it would form a shallow bed only. Also, a little bedding material was applied behind and under the tang. Be sure you prep the stock in the tang area so it accepts bedding material. Next, apply a small amount around the front pillar and on wood to support the action. Finally, apply material to bed the front action and about one inch in front of the action. The area between the pillars is not bedded but floats. I tightened the action screws firmly and let the material set. I would not recommend 5 minute epoxy, as you will not have enough time to work. The photo below should clearly indicate the amount I used. Don't forget release agent. After letting it set for about 18 hours, you will need to seperate the barreled action and clean-up the mess. After removing modeling clay and release agent, you will need to clean up any thin bedding bedding material. Apply a sealer over any bare wood. I use Minwax Early American stain and let it set until dry and buff. This matches the finish and seals the wood.
Having shot the rifle since completing the job, my goal was achieved. It didn't make it shoot like a custom machined gun, but it's accuracy has been restored. I also believe it will be more consistant and less affected by humidity. Hopefully, this will result in less frustration and better concentration on shooting technique.